There are a number of reasons why. Not only did the island become one of the largest allied airbases in WWII (the whole island was overrun by the US military after the Battle of Tinian in 1944), it was also the launching point for the “Enola Gay” and “Bockscar” B-29 bombers for the attack on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

Today, almost all of the former airbase is abandoned, however, visitors can see the exact spot the bombers were loaded with their deadly cargo, scuba dive bays filled with discarded WWII machinery, and enjoy some of the wonders of the island that existed before Europeans set foot in the pacific in the form of prehistoric taga stones.

So if you are up for a dark tourist trip to Tinian, let’s get started with a bit of history…

Tinian Island During WWII

After realizing the strategic importance of Tinian to the American entry into WWII, the Japanese scrambled to create a military force on the island.

However, despite the fact an 8,500-man Japanese garrison was posted there, the Battle of Tinian (from 24 July to 1 August 1944) was a massive defeat for the Japanese. Only 313 survived the fighting, while the allies seized the island with very few casualties.

An estimated 15,700 Japanese civilians were also living on the island at the time of the battle. Hundreds died in the crossfire, while hundreds more were executed by the Japanese military so that the Americans could not capture them.

It was a bloody, brutal battle for the Japanese and the civilian population, a small sign of what was to come once the allies had got a foothold in the Pacific, (the atomic bomb would soon follow).

Construction of the Airbase

True to the Japanese fear of strategic importance, the US immediately began constructing an airbase on the island. Located 1,500 miles (2,400 kilometers) from mainland Japan, Tinian was perfect for long-range bombing attacks.

The base was massive and incorporated the entire island with a 40,000-personnel installation. It was so huge in fact that the military laid it out in a pattern of streets similar to Manhatten, with the streets named accordingly. A slice of home for the Americans posted there.

North Field & West Field

Two runways West Field and North Field were constructed to accommodate the flow of aircraft flying in and out from combat and reconnaissance missions or delivering supplies.

North field was eventually used for missions to mainland Japan and the subsequent dropping of the two atomic bombs, Little Boy and Fat Man.

Today what was once part of West Field is Tinian International Airport. The runways at North Field, meanwhile, are overgrown and abandoned except for a few former airbase buildings and the Atom Bomb Loading Pits, (more on these below).

• Related Content: Visiting Iwo Jima – WW2 in the Pacific

Tinian Island after WWII

After the war, the island became part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands. This was controlled by the United States and a significant military presence remained there.

However, as economic ties with Japan increased during the second half of the 20th century, the pacific threat was greatly reduced.

From 1978, the island came under the municipality of the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands.

The US military presence amounted to the use of just one runway during the 1980s. North Field continued to be used for U.S. Marine Corps training exercises.

By the 1990s, the US military had all but gone and the island began developing its tourist trade.

Where is Tinian Island?

Tinian is part of the Northern Mariana Islands. Situated 1500 miles (2400 km) south of Japan and 1600 miles (2600 km) east of the Philippines, the island is a tad on the remote side. Guam is only 125 miles (200 km) away, however.

Visiting Tinian Island Today

As already mentioned, Tinian is an essential stop for anyone traveling around the pacific islands in pursuit of WWII history. It really is packed with it.

Here are some of the highlights of a trip to Tinian, both from a military tourism perspective and general enjoyment of what is a beautiful part of the world.

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Former Airbase and Memorial

The abandoned runways at North Field are a must-see while in Tinian. Plaques and displays mark the atomic bomb pits where the Enola Gay and Bockscar planes were loaded before heading to Hiroshima and Nagasaki with their devastating cargo.

There’s also remains of the actual airbase and of course, the massive network of concrete runways, albeit overgrown, still exists.

A tour will also take you to some of the Japanese fortifications that were built before the allied takeover at the Battle of Tinian.

Manhattan Connection

Streets throughout the island still have the names that were given to them by the US military during WWII

Driving down semi-empty “New York City” streets such as Broadway, 42nd Street, Lenox Avenue, Riverside Drive, and Eighth Avenue is quite a surreal experience in this remote part of the Pacific.

Scuba Dive Dump Cove

Scuba diving the pacific waters is beautiful whichever island you happen to be on. However, on Tinian, it is all the more dramatic for the items you will find.

A place called Dump Cove is a favorite for tourists; here planes, tanks, ammunition, and jeeps all lay under the water. A mecca of submerged WWII machinery second only to the larger stash at the Ghost Fleet of Truk Lagoon.

For other types of recreational diving, there’s the popular cave dive at Tinian Grotto.

Historical wonders & Natural Monuments

3,000 years ago, Chamorro King Taga built an ancient palace on the island. All that exists of that now are the prehistoric taga stones used for the construction. That being said, visiting the site of the stones and where the palace once stood is a popular tourist attraction while on Tinian.

There’s also interesting evidence of the Japanese existence on the island in the form of the Shinto shrines, and old ruins that can be found off the beaten track (a guide is required) in Tinian’s jungles and caves.

There is also the Blowhole. Exactly as it sounds, this natural monument regularly shoots 10-meter columns of water into the air.

How to get to Tinian?

Getting to Tinian is not a simple affair. In fact, for many tourists, a visit to the island often forms part of a larger itinerary that involves other pacific islands and landmarks.

Nearby Saipan is better serviced by international airlines, with direct flights from Tokyo or Osaka. A short flight of ferry journey will then take you to Tinian.

Guam is another “hub” relatively close by. US airlines operate to Guam from Hawaii and Japan. Again, transit then needs to be organized to Tinian.

Where to stay?

The Tinian Casino and Hotel is the best option for those looking for a level of luxury. In recent years, local owners have been opening up their homes using Airbnb and Booking.com.

Featured Image: Mztourist / CC BY-SA

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I have an insatiable wanderlust for the extraordinary. Born with an adventurous spirit, I have spent over the past decade exploring the far reaches of our planet, seeking out the strange and mysterious.

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The date was February 23, 1945, and the photograph soon made front pages around the world, (it also won the Pulitzer Prize for Photography the same year). Not only that, but the image also painted a false representation of what was happening on Iwo Jima.

The battle on the island would rage for over a month. 110,000 U.S. soldiers, sailors, and pilots were brought in to fight. Out of that staggeringly high number, 26,000 would be killed or injured.

It was one of the bloodiest battles in the pacific during WW2. Now, 85 years later, the volcanic outpost is open to a small stream of visitors by official guide only.

For those that are passionate about military dark tourism, it is one for the bucket list.

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The Battle of Iwo Jima

The American invasion of Iwo Jima began on February 19, 1945. It would take just 4 days for the soldiers to reach the 554-foot peak of Mount Surabachi and raise the Stars and Stripes.

However, the battle wouldn’t end until March 26, 1945. It was the first U.S. attack on the Japanese Home Islands, and it is no small surprise that the Imperial Soldiers put up such a fierce fight.

The Japanese defensive infrastructure was more than ready. Their positions were heavily fortified, with hidden bunkers, vast artillery, and a large network of tunnels for fast and effective movement.

This all gave the Japanese a strong position on the island even after the fall of Mount Surabachi.

General Tadamichi Kuribayashi had eight infantry battalions at his disposal. There was also a tank regiment, two artillery, and three heavy mortar battalions. Beyond this were the 5,000 gunners and naval infantry.

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The real difference was the Japanese tenacity, however. They defended until the end, which in turn meant a high death toll.

Out of the 21,000 Japanese soldiers that took part in the battle of Iwo Jima, 19,000 were killed. Only 1,083 surrendered.

On the final night of battle, a 300-man Japanese force launched a futile counterattack. The American forces were too great in number. The next day, the island was declared secure.

Allied losses were still comparatively high, however. According to the U.S. Navy, “The 36-day (Iwo Jima) assault resulted in more than 26,000 American casualties, including 6,800 dead.”

After the Battle of Iwo Jima, approximately 3,000 Japanese soldiers remained alive in the tunnel networks. Many committed suicide as protocol dictated. Those that didn’t remained hidden throughout the island, venturing out at night to find food and water.

Amazingly, two soldiers, Yamakage Kufuku and Matsudo Linsoki managed to last three and a half years in this condition, hiding from the Americans on the occupied island. They finally surrendered on January 6, 1949.

The U.S. military would remain on Iwo Jima for another 23 years after the invasion. It was until June 26, 1968, that the remote outpost was returned to Japan.

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Where is Iwo Jima?

Visiting Iwo Jima Today

The Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force (JMSDF) lives on the island today. They are in charge of support, air traffic control, fueling, and rescue and operate a naval airbase there.

The Japan Air Self-Defense Force also uses the base with a garrison of 400 troops on the island.

Civilian access is severely restricted. Only a small number of official tour operators are allowed to land there with tourists. [see box below].

Such tours will provide historians that will guide you to some of the key sites of the battle as well as explanations of the strategies employed by both the American and Japanese forces.

A trip to the summit of Mt. Suribachi is definitely worth it to see the spot where the flag was raised, and the iconic photograph was taken.

However, you will need good walking shoes and bring snacks and water. Walking to the top of Mt Suribachi does require a medium level of fitness. It is steep in places, but there is a paved road interspersed with gravel track.

Some of the beaches on the island are also worth visiting. There are a number of wrecks jutting out of the water (old military boats and equipment) and the overall feeling is very apocalyptic.

Two abandoned airfields from World War II also still exist. Central Field to the south of the current airbase can be visited. There is also an unfinished Japanese airfield to the north of the base.

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Recommended Tour

Stephen Ambrose – War in the Pacific Tour

Historical tours via Stephen Ambrose are the most reputable provider. A package deal takes care of all your travel and accommodation with pick up and return points in Hawai. Beyond access to Iwo Jima, the tour also includes visits to Saipan, Tinian and Guam.

A full-time historian and tour manager join you throughout. First-class accommodation and coach are also included.

RESERVE NOW

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I have an insatiable wanderlust for the extraordinary. Born with an adventurous spirit, I have spent over the past decade exploring the far reaches of our planet, seeking out the strange and mysterious.

darktourists.com/

There was a flash in the predawn sky followed a few minutes later by a rumble and those on deck thought it strange as no storm had been forecast.

2 hours later, white flakes of fine ash began to rain down. This lasted for several hours, during which time the fisherman stopped work as they started to feel unwell.

As they steered the boat back to Japan, they began to experience nausea, skin burns, bleeding gums, and eye pain. They would soon find out that they had acute radiation poisoning.

The US military had just detonated its “Bravo” nuclear bomb from its testing site in the Marshall Islands. The Lucky Dragon crew were well outside the danger zone, but the test had been twice as powerful as predicted.

The U.S. Castle Bravo Nuclear Test

8 years into the U.S Marshall Island tests, the Bravo device was the most powerful bomb the military had ever devised. It was 1,000 times more destructive than the bomb dropped on Hiroshima.

As a result, the fallout plume spread dangerous levels of radiation across a radius of over 100 miles; well beyond the range predicted (and declared publicly in advance) by the U.S authorities.

The Lucky Dragon Incident

The Lucky Dragon 5 encountered the fallout from the nuclear test at Bikini Atoll. Changes in weather patterns only exacerbated the danger as it blew the ash – that was actually white flakes of island coral infused with radioactive material – in their direction.

Due to the time it took to retrieve their equipment (and the fact they were slowly falling ill) it took several hours for them to be free of the fallout zone.

During this time the ash continued to rain down onto their hair and into their faces. Before they understood it was causing them harm, some of the fishermen had scooped the dust with their bare hands. One unfortunate man took a lick, later describing it to be “tasteless and gritty”.

By the time they reached shore and the radioactive symptoms had set in, the crew was calling it death ash.

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The fate of the crew

Upon arrival at Yaizu port the crew were immediately diagnosed with acute radiation syndrome and admitted to two Tokyo hospitals.

6 months later, on September 23, 1954, one of the crew members (chief radio operator Aikichi Kuboyama) would die. As the first Japanese victim of a hydrogen bomb his final words were said to be: “Please make sure that I am the last victim of a nuclear bomb.”

The incident triggered widespread panic in Japan. The horror and wounds of Hiroshima and Nagasaki were still very raw being less than 10 years previous. There was an understandable worry that more tests and deaths would follow.

There was also fear that tuna contaminated during the Bravo test had made its way into the market.

The crew members of Daigo Fukuryū Maru became emblems of the country’s anti-nuclear movement. With the increasing US nuclear armament in reaction to the cold war, this movement gathered much strength throughout the 1950s.

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The Daigo Fukuryumaru Museum

• Address: 2 Chome-1-1 Yumenoshima, Koto City, Tokyo 136-0081, Japan
• Phone: +81 3-3521-8494
• Website

The Lucky Dragon 5 today

After years held in storage away from the seas, the Daigo Fukuryū Maru was deemed safe for public viewing in 1976. It is now on display in Tokyo at the Daigo Fukuryū Maru Exhibition Hall.

Its fading hull is accompanied by strings of paper cranes and a Geiger counter. There is also a small jar containing specks of the deadly ash that fell from the sky and onto the boat and crew in March 1954.

Gallery Credit: Guilhem Vellut CC BY 2.0 / Featured Image: Federal government of the United States / Public domain

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I have an insatiable wanderlust for the extraordinary. Born with an adventurous spirit, I have spent over the past decade exploring the far reaches of our planet, seeking out the strange and mysterious.

darktourists.com/

Those that lived nearby saw black smoke billowing from the chimney stacks, however, something very different from sawing wood was going on inside.

Unit 731 was actually a biological weapon research facility. The “logs” was the term the staff used for the influx of Chinese prisoners that they experimented on and the black smoke was coming from the incinerators used to burn the bodies once they had finished with them.

Sanctioned by the Japanese Government

The site was Commanded by General Shiro Ishii, an officer in the Kwantung Army.

It is unknown just how many people died while Unit 731 was active, however, if victims of the resulting biological weapons are taken into account, the estimates are in the hundreds of thousands.

What is known is that every single man, woman or child that entered the complex as a prisoner, did not come out alive.

Furthermore, almost all of those deaths would have been in a horrific manner.

Inside Unit 731

Established in 1936, and operational throughout World War II, those that worked at the research unit, had no regard for human life.

Functioned under the approval of Japan’s Emperor Hirohito, it was very much a case of anything goes in the name of science.

The in-house experimentation included the study of blood loss by performing amputations, stitching limbs onto other stumps of the body, and operating to remove organs to observe the impact.

No anesthetic was used of course.

Rape and forced pregnancy occurred so that fetal survival and damage to the host reproductive organs could be examined.

Patients were also infected with diseases such as gonorrhea and syphilis in order to see the results. This involved researchers forcing infected and non-infected prisoners to have intercourse.

The researchers also liked to work “out in the field”. This meant targeting hungry children and offering them food and candy laced with lethal pathogens. The impact was then observed.

Unit programs involving biological warfare resulted in the highest death tolls. Anthrax, smallpox, typhoid, cholera, and plague-infected fleas were tested on humans at Unit 731.

Not only were prisoners within the complex infected, but the army would also fly planes and perform aerial drops over Chinese towns and villages.

These highly infectious diseases were released directly onto crops and into the water supply.

These atrocities continued for a full 9 years until Japan’s surrender in 1945. Upon defeat, the staff of Unit 731 destroyed as much evidence as they could before fleeing the complex.

Lasting Legacy

Unfortunately, the horror of Unit 731 has had a long-lasting legacy. Very few people have ever been officially held responsible.

In fact, researchers held by the U.S government were given immunity in exchange for data surrounding the experiments. (The Soviet government was less lenient, arrested researchers were tried at the Khabarovsk War Crime Trials in 1949.)

Immunity meant relocation to the US, where many of the scientists enjoyed prominent careers in academia, business, and medicine.

The Japanese government was never tried in relation to these war crimes.

Where is the Unit 731 Museum?

• Address: 25 Xinjiang Dajie, Harbin, China
• Phone: +86 451 8710 8731
• Website

Unit 731 today

Part of what was left of Unit 731 was opened as a museum in 1985. When visiting the museum you will follow a path through the prison cells, guards buildings and some of the laboratories.

Graphic photographs depict some of the experiments that took place.

Original medical instruments, including needles, saws, and vivisection hooks, serve as a chilling indication of what those poor victims endured.

A very moving section of the museum can be found inside the main exhibition hall. Here the walls are lined with hundreds of portraits and the firsthand testimonies of the guards that helped to bring the atrocities of Unit 731 to light.

That being said, the inhumanity and suffering that occurred at Unit 731 is extremely difficult to comprehend overall. The impact will stay with you long after you have left the museum.

Good to know

The museum is located approximately 1 hour from the center of Harbin. Bus no 338 or 343 from the western part of the train station will take you there.

Guided tours are available. If you don’t opt for this you should definitely use the English audio guide.

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Stew Baxter

I have an insatiable wanderlust for the extraordinary. Born with an adventurous spirit, I have spent over the past decade exploring the far reaches of our planet, seeking out the strange and mysterious.

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